[DEEP DIVE] LAWRENCE JACKET
Welcome back to "DEEP DIVE" where we take a look into the inspiration behind some of our favorite Engineered Garments pieces. In this installation, we are featuring the "Lawrence Jacket", a jacket steeped in tradition, and one of more formal Engineered Garments offerings.
The Lawrence Jacket was introduced for the first time in the Engineered Garments FW20 Fall/Winter collection, “Balance and Tune”, although devotees of the brand may recognize similarities in this silhouette to the Engineered Garments Andover Jacket.
The Lawrence Jacket is an interpretation of the sack suit - introduced during the tail end of the Victorian era for use in the casual time spent in the lounge. The sack suit was one of the first instances of a suit pants and jacket produced from the same fabric. It also ditched the waistcoat and simplified the jacket’s construction to just two pieces.
Over the years, the style gained acceptance in many professional environments and became wildly popular in the United States - not surprising considering both the suit’s egalitarian nature and easily mass-produced make-up. Brooks Brothers “No. 1 Sack Suit” first entered the market in 1901 and other manufacturers like J Press soon joined in. As Ivy League style developed among Northeastern American academic institutions in the years after World War II, the loose fit and uniform-like nature of the sack suit made it a staple piece for many students.
The name of the Lawrence Jacket is a nod to Lawrence, Massachusetts, known for its historical textile factories and home of the late Southwick Clothing - the legendary authentic American suiting company. Lawrence is also right next door to Andover, Massachusetts, the location of Andover Academy and the Andover Shop - a Ivy-centric clothing store, known for its patchwork tweeds and close association with the prestigious Phillips Academy.
In his younger days, Engineered Garments designer Daiki Suzuki often traversed the Northeastern Corridor, hunting for quality American products to sell in the Nepenthes’ Tokyo store. He had the chance to visit the Andover Shop and see the staff faithfully patching together the store's signature tweed jackets by hand, leaving a lasting impression.
The Lawrence Jacket retains most of the essential traits of the sack suit jackets made by Brooks Brothers and J Press. Three buttons on front, and two buttons spaced on the sleeves. The suit’s long shape is accentuated by the traditional notch label and natural shoulders, purposely made without padding. The four elegant pockets placed on the jacket front, include a ticket pocket - an ideal storage place for stubs or a few spare coins.
One trademark Engineered Garments twist on can be found on the back of the jacket. Although the Lawrence Jacket is made from two pieces, closed with a center seam, there are two vents located on the side, done in British-fashion, as opposed to the hooked center vent found in orthodox Ivy League style - giving the jacket an extra touch of individuality.
Dressier than most Engineered Garments blazers and sportcoats, this special item creates a polished look, and can be worn as a full suit with matching trousers.
The Lawrence Jacket is available in the following fabrics:
- Brown/Orange Wool Poly Glen Plaid
- Grey Poly Wool Herringbone
- Dk. Navy Wool Uniform Serge
- Black Tuxedo Wool
- Grey Wool Cashmere Flannel
- Dark Navy Wool Cashmere Flannel
- Olive Loden Cloth
Available in-store and online at nepenthesny.com