Engineered Garments Officer Pant
SHOPWelcome back to "DEEP DIVE," where we explore the inspiration behind some of our favorite pieces from Engineered Garments. In this edition, we spotlight the "Officer Pant," a wide-legged pant influenced by the uniforms worn by American officers during World War II.
Designer Daiki Suzuki themed the Engineered Garments Spring Summer 2024 collection around "Ivy Style," showcasing classic American Traditional items reinterpreted through his unconventional lens. While crafting the collection, Daiki aimed to include plain front khaki chino pants. Instead of sourcing designs from typical Ivy Style brands like J. Press or Brooks Brothers, he turned to the US Navy Officer's Khaki Working Uniform for inspiration.
Before 1941, this khaki uniform was the summer working attire for naval aviators, approved for commissioned officers, warrant officers, and CPOs, and worn for flying or related duties. The uniform comprised a combination cap with a khaki cover, coat, shirt, trousers, and brown shoes. In the spring of 1941, its use expanded across all Navy branches, providing a practical and comfortable summer working uniform for all officers ashore and afloat. Initially, the summer work uniform featured khaki cotton material, also known as cotton twill or drill, with some variations in lightweight 'tropical' wool, known for its durability and comfort in warm climates.
During World War II, Navy officers' working trousers allowed for ample movement, with regulations specifying the leg circumference and material matching the coat. These trousers featured a button fly, two front and two rear internally hung pockets, and a watch pocket below the waistband. Unlike Army and Marine Corps trousers, Navy trousers didn't have rear pocket flaps, though the left rear pocket had a button-through closure. In 1943, the Navy began using khaki trousers built to Army specifications to ease the garment industry's burden, with some differences in design.
The Engineered Garments Officer Pant retains several details from the original US Navy design, such as the watch pocket, roomy seat, and thighs. Daiki has made some updates for utility, like replacing the button fly with a zipper front and adding rear darts for a natural shape. The rear and front watch pockets now have flaps, a nod to WWII-era British Army officer pants, maintaining the garment's military aesthetic.
The Officer Pant exemplifies Daiki's approach to Ivy Style, preserving the genre's principles while breaking the rules.
The Officer Pant is available in the following fabrics:
Dk. Navy PC Hopsack
Grey PC Hopsack
Indigo 8oz Cone Denim
Khaki Graffiti Print Flat Twill
Khaki Highcount Twill
Olive Cotton Hemp Satin
Olive Cotton Ripstop
Available in-store and online at nepenthesny.com