Four Climes FW23
Oct 7, 2023
Daiki Suzuki unveils the Baracuta Four Climes FW23 collection, seamlessly blending Baracuta's British heritage with American influences while infusing it with Japanese design sensibility. The outcome is a collection that combines these three distinct cultures: the UK, the USA, and Japan.
Baracuta's inception traces back to Manchester, England, in 1937. Riding on the success of its iconic G9 Jacket, this British brand set up shop in the Empire State Building in New York City, briefly rebranding its products under the Four Climes banner. Leveraging his deep understanding of clothing, Daiki resurrects this name to underscore the intricate melding of American and British traditions, introducing standout pieces like the Bermuda Pant, Duffle Coat, and Parka.
The Derby Jacket captures the essence of Baracuta, channeling the spirit of the brand's iconic G9 Jacket. While omitting details like the umbrella yoke and Fraser tartan lining, it boasts flap pockets, a ribbed hem and cuffs, and a modified collar tab that evokes the original Harrington. There are also traces of classic San Francisco Derby jackets, including the positioning of throat and hem buttons and a distinctive shoulder construction.
The Bermuda Pant masterfully interlaces British and American influences, both British country and American heritage styles. Traditional British tailoring features abound, including the double-cuffed hem and rear flap Besom pockets. The pant's primary feature is an inverted pleat on the front—a distinctly American embellishment—where the folds converge at the outer edges, facing away from each other.
The Duffle Coat draws inspiration from a vintage military overcoat, reimagined with a duffle coat silhouette. Replacing the customary jute and toggle front closure are four rows of buttons, each equipped with a frog fastener. This ingenious design allows the jacket to close from either side, minimizing the appearance of being double-breasted. The coat's generous proportions, adaptable cuffs, and snap-close side vents all pay homage to classic duffle coat aesthetics.
All three of these items showcase a triangular patchwork design. The Bermuda pants blend shades of olive, dark brown, chestnut, and navy in a Patchwork Corduroy. Meanwhile, the patchwork on the Parka and Duffle Coat incorporates four distinct materials: gun club check wool, indigo denim, dark brown corduroy, and black moleskin. This melding of fabrics with varying weights and textures gives pieces crafted from the Patchwork Fabric material a unique tactile quality, which will develop a distinctive patina as each textile ages. The Patchwork Corduroy and Patchwork Fabric are bespoke materials designed by Daiki before being milled in Italy.
You can find these pieces both in-store and online at nepenthesny.com.