Engineered Garments x Easymoc - Surf Boot
FW23 - SPECIAL RELEASE
Nov 22, 2023
Engineered Garments and Maine-based Easymoc collaborated to introduce the Surf Boot. This functional footwear seamlessly blends two of Engineered Garments' Daiki Suzuki's inspirations: New England footwear and surf culture. Releasing Saturday, November 25th, in-store and online at nepenthesny.com.
The Surf Boot draws inspiration from the iconic shearling footwear initially worn by Australian surfers in the 1960s. The Aussie surf style made its way to America's West Coast in the early 1980s, popularizing Rip Curl wetsuits, Billabong board shorts, and distinctive fleece-lined footwear. Beyond its practical benefits—such as water absorption, sand resistance, and warmth—the boot embodies the carefree, laid-back surfer lifestyle.
Daiki, an old surfer at New York City's Rockaway Beach year-round, sought boots suitable for frosty winter mornings on the beach. Imagining a slipper that could blend West Coast mellowness with East Coast expertise, he approached Greg Cordeiro at Easymoc, one of the few manufacturers still producing American handsewn footwear.
Growing up in Massachusetts with a passion for New England outdoor culture, Greg Cordeiro engaged in sailing, hiking, and crafting saltwater flies for his family's fly fishing business. This love for the outdoors led him to the footwear industry. After years with multinational footwear brands, he founded Easymoc in 2020, committed to traditional construction methods.
Easymoc's manufacturing process strictly adheres to orthodox techniques, mainly using decades-old machinery and employing experienced craftsmen, including 88-year-old Peter, who sews 40 hours a week. Operating out of a repurposed mill in Lewiston, Maine—the last stronghold of handsewn craftsmanship in America—Easymoc embraces tradition.
The Surf Boot begins with premium materials. The outer suede material comes from American steer "wet blue" chrome-tanned leather, split to achieve a supple suede with a distinct nap grain. The lining features whole sheep hides tanned with the shearling intact, offering extreme comfort and insulation.
Like many of their products, Easymoc produced the Surf Boot in small batches, with each piece of leather cut, skived, and clicked by hand before cobblers last the leather for stitching.
The boot displays over four types of stitches, including machine stitching for reinforcement and a refined look. Handsewn stitches appear on the classic moc toe, the "plug" holding the moc toe to the vamp, and the "kicker"—the "T" shaped hand stitching closing the rear of the boot.
Unlike much of New England's handcrafted footwear, the Surf Boot doesn't feature welt construction but utilizes the Blake Rapid method for flexibility and durability. First, cobblers sew rubber and leather pieces to create a midsole, producing stitches around the midsole perimeter, then attach to the upper with a heavy gauge stitch, providing strength and weather protection akin to a Goodyear welt.
The finishing touch involves cobblers cementing the uppers and midsole to a Vibram Morflex sole. Morflex is a lightweight, flexible, and shock-absorbent plastic compound made from expanded EVA. Prioritizing comfort, Daiki insisted on using Morflex instead of lone rubber for the Surf Boot.
Daiki designed the Surf Boot harmoniously with the surfer lifestyle—comfortable, easy, and laid-back. However, beneath its deceptively simple appearance lies generations of shoemaking craftsmanship.
Available in Stone, Chocolate, and Brown Suede.