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Engineered Garments X Pilgrim Surf & Supply


Welcome back to "DEEP DIVE," where we explore the inspiration behind some of our favorite Engineered Garments pieces. This edition highlights a unique collaboration between Engineered Garments and Pilgrim Surf & Supply: the RN Smock.

The smock's history dates back to the Dark Ages when its loose-fitting silhouette and full coverage made it a popular choice for peasants who spent most of their days outside. Its simplicity meant no complicated patterns were needed for its construction, making it universally accessible. However, the Industrial Revolution brought an influx of cheap, mass-produced clothing, leading to the smock's decline. Despite this, the smock experienced a revival during warfare, notably in World War II.

The British were the first Allied Forces to revive the smock during World War II, creating the Denison Smock, designed by Major Mervyn Dennison, for the elite parachuting British Special Air Service commandos. (For more on this, see our SAS Jacket Deep Dive.) The Americans followed suit, creating various versions, including the denim US Navy Deck Smock and the olive-drab cotton US Army M-43 Mountain Division Smock. By the war's end, the smock had found a new purpose.


Enter the "Windproof Smock," the inspiration behind the Engineered Garments x Pilgrim Surf & Supply RN Smock. Designed by the Royal Navy post-war for cold and wet weather service on aircraft carriers, this smock was built around water and windproofing. It incorporated large flap closure pockets from the Denison but with a cropped body similar to the American style. A drawstring was added to the mid-torso for wind-tightness, while Belstaff produced early versions worn in the 1950s through the 1970s.

The original navy blue versions featured Ventile construction, a textile popular in military, medical, and workwear applications. Woven from 100% cotton using a long staple fiber, Ventile's dense weave and the fibers' swelling properties when wet provide excellent weatherproofing. This natural product is breathable, windproof, durable, and resistant to tearing and burning.

The Engineered Garments x Pilgrim Surf & Supply RN Smock draws inspiration from this legendary naval garment packed with hidden details. The smock features vast proportions, which aligns with the traditional smock style and designer Daiki Suzuki's aesthetic. The front boasts seven flap pockets with mixed button and snap closures, while the rear adds two flap pockets and a large cylindrical pocket with a drawcord closure, ideal for storing a tripod or fishing rod. The hem features an adjustable drawcord and zipper vents for ventilation, while the cuffs have metal snaps for cinching. Reinforcement patches on the arms add extra strength.

The RN Smock's centerpiece is its intricate hood construction, which features a snap-brim and adjustable buckle on the outside, a gas flap and complex button closure system on the front, and a cinchable nylon drawstring inside. The sides of the hood can expand outwards; a detail originally included housing the headsets used by radio officers on the flight deck.

This version replaces the original Ventile with high-quality PC Poplin, a polyester-cotton blend made in Japan that is naturally wrinkle-resistant, mildly water-resistant, lightweight, and breathable.


The Engineered Garments x Pilgrim Surf & Supply RN Smock encapsulates the best of both brands, combining history, utility, and aesthetics into one exceptional piece of clothing.