[DEEP DIVE] BANDED COLLAR SHIRT
Welcome back to "DEEP DIVE" where we take a look into the inspiration behind some of our favorite Engineered Garments pieces. In this installation, we are featuring the "Banded Collar Shirt", a unique design that deftly combines tradition with modern technical elements.
As the name suggests, the defining aspect of the Banded Collar Shirt is the collar itself. This type of collar emerged in Europe during the 19th century, when most dress shirt collars were disposable. As something which always shows when wearing a suit, huge importance was placed on keeping the collar clean and crisp. These disposable versions were usually attached to the shirt with a stud system instead of being sewn in. The only time the banded collar was seen was while dressing, and it was unthinkable to wear the style in public.
Of course, these restrictions only replied to the so-called “white collar” segment of the population. There were plenty of workers whose jobs didn’t require fine suits or pressed shirts, and the banded collar became a staple piece for cowboys, factory workers and farmers, in both Europe.
As Daiki refers to it, the Engineered Garments Banded Collar Shirt is essentially a “grandad shirt”, a traditional piece of clothing originating among Irish farmers. Filled with thoughtful details, these shirts were often made from chambray twill and featured an extended collar with a two button closure. Rumored to have been favored by those tilling the field in the Irish countryside, the no-frills brushed cotton shirt was often worn by the eldest man of the household, and came to represent hardiness, dependability and a measured approach to life - neither too formal nor too casual.
Daiki takes this classic silhouette, and pairs it with aspects of classic outdoors shirts made by brands like Columbia and Sierra Designs. In contrast to the single breast pocket of the orthodox grandad shirt, the Banded Collar Shirt has two different sized flap pockets for plenty of storage. The strap across the placket is another contemporary update, and can be used to secure a canteen, or help to style a scarf or pendant. The biggest change however, comes from the diagonal zip-pocket - truly technical; this pocket, though largely concealed, is perfectly placed for easy access.
The fabric choice for these shirts cannot be overlooked either. Apart from the classic Indigo Denim Will Shirting, we have Nano Twill which is often found in the service industry and is naturally stain-repellent - giving the shirt a particular texture. The Printed Plaids are something from Daiki’s own history, popular in the 1970s and 80s and representative of his conception of “the good old days”, a notion that connects all aspects of the shirt’s inspiration. The Printed Plaids will also fade slightly with wear, giving them a different character over time.
By borrowing from two distinct items - the grandad shirt and the technical outdoors shirt - Daiki creates something that exists all on its own. Unlike utilitarian clothing manufacturers, Engineered Garments’ position as a fashion brand enables Daiki to address the concept of the outdoors in both a rustic and contemporary form - creating something that falls into neither category. With its spirit firmly rooted in past structure, the Banded Collar Shirt is allowed to take a new form altogether.
The Banded Collar Shirt is available in the following fabrics:
- Indigo Denim Twill Shirting
- Black Cotton Nano Twill
- White Cotton Nano Twill
- Red/Blue Cotton Printed Plaid
- Tan/Purple Cotton Printed Plaid
Available in-store and online at nepenthesny.com